One of the unexpected pleasures of this summer has been the Garden Pavilion restaurant in the marquee in the gardens of Chiswick House. Definitely a treat destination rather than your every day, but you certainly feel that you have been treated if you are lucky enough to eat there. Larry Pryce has this review.
Pop Up Paradise
A welcome breath of fresh air after the rigours of lockdown is to be found over at the Garden Pavilion Restaurant over in the grounds of Chiswick House this summer. This was a Pop Up with attitude, in the form of a new fine dining experience for the summer season launched by Chef Director Max Uyanik and his partner Chef-Patron Andrew Gosling, CEO of the parent company, Food Show Events.
It was a fine sunny day with hardly a cloud in the sky when my lunch companion, Bridget Osborne editor of the Chiswick Calendar and I met on the outside terrace overlooking the lawns of Chiswick House. We were immediately offered a glass of chilled Il Fiol Prosecco, dry but with a nice length bringing to mind ripe apples and mountain flowers. A delicious start to lunch and one that all Chiswick Calendar Club Card holders are offered as complimentary on arrival.
Service was prompt and attentive and a look at the 3 course set menu was already making us hungry. A choice of starters included Foie Gras and Gressingham Duck Terrine with Pickled Garden Pears, Candied Peanuts and warm Brioche, Passion Fruit cured Organic Salmon with Mango Salsa & Lime Crème Fraiche and Nutbourne Heritage Tomato Salad with Buratta, Black Garlic, Basil Ice Cream & Sea Coral Buckwheat Tuile (cookies) beckoned. Whilst Bridget ordered the salmon couldn’t I couldn’t resist the Foie Gras Terrine, rich but melt-in-the mouth …. very naughty but very nice!
Image above: Passionfruit cured organic salmon; mango salsa and lime creme fraiche; Foie Gras Terrine
Bridget thoroughly enjoyed her salmon which was neatly coiled into succulent, bite sized pieces accompanied by sweet rounds of mango salsa whilst the lime creme fraiche brought a nice touch of tartness to the dish.
Image above: Duo of New Season Lamb
We both chose the Duo of New Season Lamb which came with the Cannon (loin), pressed shoulder, crispy potato galette, grilled baby courgettes and braised garden peas served with a tasty balsamic jus. All conversation subsided for a while as we tucked in to the deliciously tender lamb, washed down with a bottle of very moreish Spanish Rioja, a bottle suggested for us from a good, well selected wine list from both the New and the Old World.
Other mains such as the Pan Seared Fillet Of Cornish Sea Bass served with a green vegetable Risotto Primavera and Wye Valley Asparagus or the Wild Mushroom & Summer Truffle Pithivier (pie) were also extremely tempting…..perhaps next time!
Image above: Deconstructed Pina Colada; Chocolate and respberry delice; roasted hazelnuts praline, raspberry and cacao nib crisps
Puddings are an indulgence definitely not to missed out on with Deconstructed Pina Colada, (coconut panna cotta, rum & pineapple sorbet), Edible Flowerpot, (carrot cake, & coffee crumble) and Chocolate & Raspberry Delice all on offer. Bridget enjoyed the latter and I the former, both highly delicious if also highly calorific, but what the heck, one has to step up to the plate for such a gastronomic experience!
The Pavilion Restaurant’s combination of fresh seasonal produce allied to an interesting menu of beautifully cooked and attractively presented food speaks volumes for its innovative chef-patron and the kitchen itself. Added to which, the sheer quality of the end product makes the price of the Prix Fixe Menu at £38.50 for 2 courses and £48.50 for 3 courses in the midst of such a superb setting seem like a bit of a bargain. We could all do with more Pop Ups like this please!
Larry Pryce, sometime travel and food correspondent, is best known in Chiswick as a Jazz promoter and producer of the music schedule for Jazz at George IV
The Garden Pavilion at Chiswick House and Gardens, Burlington Lane, Chiswick, London W4 2RP
Tel: 07759 495245
As this is a pop up, the Garden Pavilion restaurant will only be there until the end of August. To make a reservation see gardenpavilion.co.uk/reservations
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